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Understanding the braai, or, How to not make an idiot of yourself during the ritual carbonisation of meat

October 25, 2009 By: Phillip Category: Food & drink, The natives

If you hang with middle-class natives for any significant amount of time you will, inevitably, be invited to a braai. At that point you want to be very, very careful. One misstep, one unfortunate remark, and you will be branded as a filthy, ignorant foreigner and driven out of polite society forever.

On the surface a braai may seem like a casual outdoor gathering of friends and family that just happens to be centered on the preparation of food. In reality it is one of the most sacred rituals of South African life, one that comes with its own language and attitudes and requirements. You will be expected to be familiar with all of these, because every South African is born with an instinctive understanding of what is required and cannot conceive of anybody who isn’t similarly equipped. In other words, your inadvertent mistake will be read as a deliberate insult.

Pro tip: show no fear of the fire. Doing so implies that your host has not tamed the beast that burns, and that is a mortal insult.

Pro tip: show no fear of the fire. Doing so implies that your host has not tamed the beast that burns, and that is a mortal insult. Photo by Marko Milošević with some rights reserved.

To start with, you’d better have a very good excuse indeed if you wish to decline an invitation to a braai. You must also express extreme gratitude at being asked, and complain bitterly about how this job interview/quest to save the world/birth of your first child will perforce keep you away.

Do not, at any point, refer to the event as a “barbecue”, “picnic” or “lunch”. It is none of those things, and equating a braai with any of them is disparaging.

Do not arrive at the braai with your own utensils or meat unless specifically asked to do so – preferably in writing. A bottle of wine, your own beer or any traditional dinner-party type of gift is fine, but the implication that your host isn’t fully prepared or has inferior hardware will cause deep hurt.

In a similar vein, make no attempt to help with the lighting of the fire, the cleaning of the grill or the actual handling of the meat unless explicitly invited. If you are so invited, follow all commands and suggestions to the letter without question or variation. Unless your host is a pre-teen he has his own unique method of doing these things, which in his eyes is superior to any conceivable alternative. You are welcome to visit the kitchen and pitch in with the washing of lettuce (or whatever it is that happens in there), but when it comes to anything on or around the fire, defer absolutely to the designated alpha male.

Have an answer ready in case you are asked how you prefer your red meat. It need not be restricted to rare, medium or well done; the more detailed your requirements, the better. “Well done on the outside with just a hint of pink in the middle,” for example, will mark you out as refined. Saying you have no preference or leaving it up to the braaier will show you up as an imbecile and raise suspicions that you may be a crypto-vegetarian.

You must – and this is an absolute – effusively praise your host and/or the primary braaier on the end product and the unrivaled skill that produced it. Regardless of whether you had to gag it down with a glass of water per swallow. A willingness to learn, such as by asking questions about the process (either during or after) will earn you extra credit. Just be careful to frame those questions so that they can not be inferred as doubt or judgment. Self-deprecation is also a good idea, and pointing out that your home country has no similarly advanced method of meat preparation is perfect.

Other than that you’ll be fine. There is no dress code for a braai (you can wear a tie or a little black number if you like, but everybody else will laugh at you) and there is nothing resembling table manners (failing to eat with your hands will mark you out as fastidious, but even that is allowed). Enjoy.

Howzzzt recommends: Mama Tembos, Linden, Johannesburg

August 13, 2009 By: Phillip Category: Food & drink, Sanitised South Africa, We recommend

It’s as fake as a very fake thing indeed, but that is the perverse charm of the Mama Tembos restaurant – and the whole reason why we point photo-hungry tourists there.

See, not everybody is cut out for a real township tour. And that’s okay, really. Most of us don’t go to Europe and then seek out the poor and dirty neighbourhoods either. Many of us don’t even visit the site of a former Nazi concentration camp, because on some holidays you don’t want to be weighed down with the miseries of the past. You just want Disney World: sanitised, mindless, and ever-so-superficially happy.

Imagine yourself in that seat over there. Now imagine telling your friends and family just how deep inside the township you were.

Imagine yourself in that seat over there. Now imagine telling your friends and family just how deep inside the township you were.

That just about sums up Mama Tembos. It’s right in the heart of Linden, an upper middle-class suburb where the cars are shiny and the gardens filled with trees. It’s actually right across the road from a small television production facility. But it pretends really hard to be straight from the township, at least in terms of decor.

The decor is, of course, fake. So is the the menu, which features items with names that reference popular soccer teams and not-so-popular politicians, except the average township tavern has never heard of prawns (and doesn’t sell a lot of premium steak either).

All of which is just perfect. There isn’t a single thing on the menu that is even exotic, never mind gross. The service is good, and in English, and the kitchen is free of gut-rotting bacteria and the stench of the final bowel movements of freshly slaughtered animals. The bathrooms have running water. And you know what? Your friends back home will never be able to spot the fake decor in the background to your awesome pictures. To all intents and purposes you’d have been on that mandatory township tour, at least as far as any of them will ever know. It can be our little secret, promise.

Think of it this way: when you go to the medieval-themed castle in Disney World you don’t have skewered heads on display or diseased men pissing in the corners. Sometimes sanitised is good.

Mama Tembos
Cnr 4th avenue and 7th street, Linden
Johannesburg
Tel: 011 912 7770
www.mamatembo.co.za

Howzzzt recommends: The Observatory restaurant, Johannesburg

July 22, 2009 By: Phillip Category: Food & drink, We recommend

It’s not exactly an African experience in the sense that tourists so often expect (no bare-breasted dancing women, for example), but The Observatory is a pretty special dinner venue. And if you’re from the northern hemisphere it offers something you won’t get at home.

Telescope not shown to scale, because its too friggin big.

Telescope not shown to scale, because it's too friggin big.

The restaurant is connected to an honest-to-God observatory with a 62cm (or 25 inch) telescope, a Newtonian/Cassegrain Bradford made by the Rand Corporation. It is apparently the biggest pro scope in private hands in this half of the world, and how exactly the restaurant came to own it has not been explained entirely to our satisfaction. Even if it did fall off the back of a truck, it’s a wicked-cool piece of equipment, and you don’t need to be an astronomy buff to appreciate it.

In fact, you don’t need to know anything about astronomy whatsoever. Between courses the resident astronomer will walk you through everything from the basic composition of the Milky Way to the nature of stellar nurseries. All you need to do is climb up the ladder and look through the eyepiece and see the pretty lights.

Notice the inviting fire in the background and the multiple layers of clothing. Astronomy is an outdoor sport. Remember that in winter.

Notice the inviting fire in the background and the multiple layers of clothing. Astronomy is an outdoor sport. Remember that in winter.

It’s not great for children under ten or so, and in mid-winter you’d better bundle up real good, but otherwise there just isn’t a downside. The limited menu offers great food at startlingly low prices, the venue is personal and the star gazing is unmatched. The restaurant is a little way outside of Johannesburg (but 45 minutes will still put you back at your city hotel) and is part of the Cradle of Humankind area, so it makes a nice end to a day outing.

If you like astronomy, use the opportunity to see the southern hemisphere skies. If you don’t normally look at the skies, consider it an educational opportunity. Just pick a cloudless night.

The Observatory
Aloe Ridge Hotel and Game Reserve
Zwartkop Gorge
Zwartkops
Tel: 011 957 2070
www.aloeridgehotel.com

Howzzzt recommends: 2Chefs Bistro, Dullstroom

April 15, 2009 By: Phillip Category: Food & drink, We recommend

So Dullstroom (as you know, if you’ve read our quick guide to it), has a whole lot of restaurants for a place so miniscule. One thing it is remarkably short of, though, is decent vegetarian fare. There’s plenty of trout, unsurprisingly enough, and the usual flash-frozen vegetarian lasagne that should have been declared a crime against humanity years ago. But if you are looking for something a little exotic or exciting, you are bang out of luck.

The somewhat understated sign for the 2Chefs Bistro in Dullstroom

The somewhat understated sign for the 2Chefs Bistro in Dullstroom


Or so we thought, until we discovered the 2Chefs Bistro. It’s on the main drag but tucked away in a corner and not particularly well sign-posted. Look for the hugely and gaudily branded Rose Cottage, then turn your back on it, cross the street, and you are there. Doesn’t look like much, does it? Now ignore the decor and look at the menu instead.

We can’t promise that it will be there for much longer, because it’s not pulling the kind of traffic that a restaurant needs to make a decent profit. But while it’s there, it’s really worth a visit. The long list of vegetarian dishes is varied and amazing. They serve a mean ostrich, and the usual tea-garden menu is pretty snazzy in itself.

The view towards the outdoor seating at the 2Chefs restaurant

The view towards the outdoor seating at the 2Chefs restaurant

This is not a high-volume joint, so each dish is prepared with attention to detail. And the serving staff are always glad to see you and, more importantly, your tips.

If you do go to Dullstroom (and don’t say we didn’t warn you when you get bored), give it a try and let us know what you think.

The official address:
2Chefs Bistro
Willobrook Centre
Naledi Drive
Dullstroom
Tel: 013 254 0920


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